“Welcome to Thabamati Lodge” say’s Mich (pronounced meesh) as she greets us. Thabamati Luxury Tented Camp is located in the Timbavati game reserve about an hour drive from our first stay. The moment we step inside we know we are in for an amazing experience. The lodge is four years old, faces west toward the evening sunset and overlooks a small reservoir where game come for water. You can enjoy the view from anywhere on property whether you are in your room, enjoying the infinity pool or seated around the Boma.
A maximum of 8 guests stay in four luxury “tents”. I put tents in quotes because while they have canvas sides and roof there is nothing else resembling a tent camping experience. King sized beds, private decks, indoor and outdoor showers, a soaking tub all with expansive views over the reservoir and mountains in the distance.
At any giving time, you may see hippos, elephants, zebra, impala, kudu, giraffe, or wildebeest at the water’s edge. The food is white tablecloth restaurant quality and the bar, which seats 8, is fully stocked. Surprisingly, drink prices are reasonable, a nice 12 year old scotch will only cost around $4. All of this luxury will cost you about $500 a night per person plus alcohol and tips. It seems a bargain compared to many lodges charging a $1000 a night, but let’s be honest, $500 a night per person is not cheap.
You quickly notice the special touches Mich brings to your stay. Depending on the weather they may set up dining tables inside or out on the deck, in the evening the tables may be moved to the Boma. Your table will be moved to various locations around the deck insuring you rarely have the same view.
On cool evenings you will find your bed warmed with a hot water bottle. And one evening we arrived back from our game drive to find the bath drawn and sprinkled with rose petals. “Enjoy” was written in shells on the floor mat.
The daily routine is similar to that at Kwambili, two game drives a day with breakfast at 9, lunch at 2:30 and Dinner at 7:30. The pace is a bit more relaxed, allowing for a cocktail around the fire with our hosts before a long lingering dinner. Mich’s husband Charel (Charlie) is our game guide/driver, and Cresswell is our tracker each day. Mich and Charel have been hosts here at Thabamati since it opened during Covid in 2020, a difficult start to say the least. They have managed other camps over the years and originally met while running group camping trips for a South African tour operator. Their experience shows and their attention to detail is impressive. They are a joy to chat with around the fire or across the bar.
In conversations with our trackers at both camps I learned there are schools for the profession. Similarly, there are courses and certifications for Game Guides as well. Their knowledge of mammals, birds and plants is impressive. I have written before about the dark side of tourism, but there is no question that it provides training and a good job for many locals. In a country with over 30% unemployment, tourism jobs are important. Charel mentioned that Covid really highlighted the impact that tourism has throughout the country and the national economy as most people employed in tourism are providing financial support to an average of 10 people back in the townships. Regardless, we understand that these jobs require long hours catering to clients from the moment we rise until we go to bed each night. So, we try to treat all staff with kindness, generosity and respect, and maybe call it a night earlier than we might at home.
If you go on Safari, you will quickly be confronted with the circle of life. Not just the Disney song, though there are plenty of references to Disney’s Lion King here in South Africa. We all cracked up when our tracker followed Cap’s lead and started singing Hakuna Matata. But here you see the real circle of life in the wild where animals hunt, kill and eat other animals. Where weak animals die due to lack of food and water. The game reserves interfere as little as possible with natural life in the wild.
There are breeding programs for endangered species and constant patrols for poachers. But otherwise, the animals are left alone, they are not fed nor treated for illness. Our Toyota Land Cruiser provided a front row seat with lions and leopards just a few feet away doing what lions and leopards do. Common sightings included 11 lions feasting on a giraffe while hyenas and vultures waited their turn. A leopard in a tree with the remains of an impala, and another leopard with what was left of a wart hog. Grizzly at times and the downwind smell was horrible, but fascinating and an honest view of life in the wild.
The internet is filled with opinions on the best time to visit South Africa and many will tell you that it is a year-round destination as the animals don’t go on vacation. We chose September because it worked with our schedule, and I think it was the perfect time. September is the start of spring so winter is ending and the temperatures are reaching into the 80s. Trees and bushes are bare of leaves making it much easier to see animals across terrain. Winters are dry and water is scarce so animals will visit watering holes and insects are almost non-existent. Charel’s comments on the triple digit heat of summer and swarms of bugs during and after the rainy season convinced me we came at the right time. Regardless, I would like to see the African plain when it is lush and green, or in bloom. Maybe we will try May next time
I questioned our guides and our booking agent about the need to visit two camps and whether we should visit Kruger National Park in addition to private game camps. I got similar opinions from all. You will see animals everywhere. However, animals will be constantly on the move looking for food and water. We saw a herd of over 500 Cape Buffalo in Timbavati and none in Thorneybush. The same was true for Rhino. So, moving around does give you more opportunity to see animals.
The primary differences between a private reserve and the National Park is cost, which reults in better facilities, better food and fewer people. The various lodges on private reserves work together to see animals but limit crowds which puts less pressure on the animals. The rule on private reserves is no more than two vehicles at an animal sighting, you watch for 15 minutes or so then you change places and let another vehicle come in. In Kruger you have ranger guided tours with vehicles holding 20 or more combined with private vehicles.. Our guide Tim at Kwambili suggested more animals migrate onto private reserve land to avoid the swarms of humans in Kruger.
While I know the private guide has a vested interest in making his product sound better, I have seen the hoards of people descend upon a bear sighting in Yellowstone and know there is truth to his opinion. Watching lions and leopards lie casually a few feet from us completely unconcerned about our vehicle or the people in it is in stark contrast to game sightings I have experienced in Yellowstone or Yosemite where sightings are rare and fleeting as game is driven off by stupid humans trying to get a selfie. Here, you never leave the vehicle when game is near, you never put your hands outside the vehicle and you never stand up. You are the visitor, here to observe. There is much you can learn by quiet observation.
G&K
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